How to Identify a Pure Kanjivaram Silk Saree: A Complete Guide
Kanjivaram (or Kanchipuram) silk sarees are known for their luxurious texture, intricate designs, and rich history. Woven in the small town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, these sarees have become a symbol of tradition, elegance, and craftsmanship. However, with their popularity, the market is also filled with imitations. If you’re looking to invest in an authentic Kanjivaram silk saree, knowing how to identify a pure one is essential.
Here’s how to tell if the Kanjivaram silk saree you’re eyeing is genuine:
1. The Silk Test: Feel and Texture
Pure Kanjivaram silk is made from high-quality mulberry silk, which feels smooth, soft, and luxurious. When you touch the saree, it should feel rich but sturdy, with a slight sheen that comes from pure silk. Fake or synthetic versions may feel too smooth or overly shiny and lack the weight and texture of real silk.
How to Check: Rub the fabric gently between your fingers. Pure silk will feel soft yet slightly coarse due to the natural silk fibers, whereas fake silk will be unnaturally smooth or slippery.
2. Zari Check: Pure Gold and Silver Zari
The hallmark of an authentic Kanjivaram silk saree is its zari work. Zari is the intricate metallic thread used to weave the borders, motifs, and pallu (the drape end of the saree). In a traditional Kanjivaram saree, the zari is made using real silver and gold. The thread is made by wrapping silver around a silk core and then coated with gold.
How to Check: Look for a hallmark or certification of pure zari on the saree label. If the saree uses pure zari, it will have a muted, regal shine (not overly shiny like fake metallic threads). You can also pull out a small portion of zari from the reverse side of the saree. Scratch it lightly—real zari will reveal a reddish or whitish silk core (indicating pure silver), while fake zari made from polyester will reveal a white or yellowish plastic core.
3. Weaving Pattern: Traditional Motifs
Kanjivaram sarees are handwoven with unique patterns and motifs inspired by temple architecture, mythological tales, and nature. Some common designs include:
Checks and stripes
Peacock or temple border designs
Floral vines and paisley patterns
The weaves are intricate, and the designs are woven directly into the fabric, rather than being printed. The borders and the body of the saree are often woven separately and then meticulously joined, giving the saree a distinct finish. You can feel a slight ridge where the body and border meet—this is a signature of an authentic Kanjivaram saree.
4. Weight: Heaviness of the Saree
A pure Kanjivaram silk saree is relatively heavier than its synthetic or blended counterparts. This is due to the density of the silk and the elaborate zari work. The heaviness of the fabric makes the saree drape beautifully and stay in place without excessive adjustments.
How to Check: When holding a Kanjivaram saree, you should feel a noticeable weight in your hands. Imitations or blended versions are lighter and often don’t have the same rich drape as the original.
5. Burn Test: Authenticity of Silk
The burn test is a traditional method to check if the silk is real. Take a small thread from an inconspicuous part of the saree (like the reverse side). Burn it carefully.
How to Check: Pure silk, when burned, smells like burning hair and turns to ash. Fake or synthetic silk, however, will smell like burning plastic and form a sticky residue.
Important Note: Perform this test only if you're confident or under the guidance of an expert, as you don't want to damage the saree.
6. Certification and Silk Mark
The easiest and most reliable way to ensure the authenticity of a Kanjivaram silk saree is to check for the "Silk Mark" label, issued by the Silk Mark Organization of India (SMOI). This mark guarantees that the saree is made from pure silk. Many reputable stores and weavers provide this certification with each saree.
How to Check: Look for the "Silk Mark" tag attached to the saree or ask the retailer for certification. This ensures that the silk used in the saree is 100% genuine.
7. Price: Reflects the Quality
Pure Kanjivaram silk sarees are an investment. Due to the labor-intensive handweaving process, high-quality silk, and pure zari work, these sarees tend to be expensive. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.
How to Check: Authentic Kanjivaram sarees usually start at a higher price point, depending on the zari and design complexity. While some variations like half-fine zari sarees may be more affordable, be wary of cheap knock-offs.
8. Shop from Trusted Sources
Given the number of imitations in the market, always buy Kanjivaram silk sarees from trusted and reputed stores or directly from weavers. Many certified shops offer genuine sarees with proper certification and guarantee.
How to Check: Look for stores that specialize in handloom sarees, have been in the business for a long time, and have a reputation for selling authentic products. Online purchases should only be made from trusted e-commerce platforms or from the weavers' cooperatives.
Conclusion
Investing in a pure Kanjivaram silk saree is not just about buying a piece of clothing—it's about owning a piece of heritage and tradition. By checking for quality silk, pure zari, traditional weaving patterns, and certification, you can ensure that you’re purchasing an authentic Kanjivaram saree. Whether for weddings, festivals, or special occasions, a pure Kanjivaram saree will stand the test of time and remain a treasured part of your wardrobe for generations to come.
